This was a slightly run-down real-ale pub until taken over by Sam Smiths, the Yorkshire brewers, in 1998. They did a gorgeous full restoration of the interior, returning it to its Victorian splendour and original design, reminiscent of the old gin palaces. The pub is divided into two smallish bars, and a handful of booths, with a single, oval, central counter to serve all of them. Everywhere is dark wood, ornate mirrors, etched glass, chandelier lights, decorative tiling, and leather benches. Unsurprisingly, it is now a grade II listed building, and on the CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale) inventory of historic pub interiors. Apparently, even the gents’ toilets, with their marble urinals, are listed in their own right.